Stephen Brewster once quoted, “Details are the difference between good stuff and great stuff.” Without details, there would be no difference between the Chrysler and the Bentley, a malamute to a husky, and in an awful, alternate universe, there would be no difference between custom, tailored and off-the-rack.
Details are the juice to the squeeze, the icing to the cake, the froth on the beer—you get the point...at InStitchu, we love details and often they can accentuate and even complement your bodies features. The beauty of the custom, tailored route is that you can design your garment with details that make your garment unique to you, the design world is your oyster, opt in for buttons that kiss, a notch lapel or a peak lapel, or the perfect pocket for your black tie event. The options are often endless, and also overwhelming—we must never skim over details, something that transforms a garment from bland to brilliant, so we are giving the details on the details below.
The Details on...the Lapel
The suit lapel is the folded part on the chest area of the suit. How do you know whether you should choose between the notch, the peak, or the shawl and should you go for wide or slim?
1. THE NOTCH LAPEL: The most common and versatile of the three, and most commonly worn in the corporate world. This lapel is found in single-breasted suit jackets, blazers and sportscoats. Suitable for all body types, slim notch lapels will tend to flatter and maintain the proportions of a frame that is slimmer.
2. THE PEAK LAPEL: For those heading to a wedding or black tie event, the peak lapel takes a seat in being more fashion-forward and is often seen sported on tailcoats and morning coats. It can add a slimming effect, and for those who wish to add the illusion to height, the points of a peak lapel can create an elongating effect.
3. THE SHAWL LAPEL: This lapel is characterised by a rounded edge and most commonly seen on dinner jackets and tuxedos. Customise your suit with a shawl lapel if you are heading to a red carpet, wedding or black tie event. Note: This lapel is suitable for most body types, however can work against those with an extremely rounded face—for the men without the strong jawlines, opt for a peak or notch lapel instead.
The Details on the Button
Do you opt for one button, two buttons, three, four or six? Buttons are crucial when designing your suit and can make or break your design.
1. ONE BUTTON: As a rule of thumb, the one button single breasted suit jacket is seen on a tuxedo—we recommend always having this button done up when you are standing.
2. TWO BUTTONS: The two-button single-breasted suit jacket is the most classic look, suitable for all body types. It's essential that you only button the top button up, and leave the second button undone—(essential suiting 101) some details are only deserving of decoration.
3. THREE BUTTONS: Less common, this look is best for the taller man, however it’s best to button up only the middle button, sometimes the top and absolutely never the bottom button.
The Details on...the Pocket
Last but certainly not least, the final detail that we are going to break down is the pocket. Never overlook the pocket—this detail can often be the one that transforms a casual suit into a formal one. Below are our three most popular pockets.
1. THE PATCH POCKET: Opt for a patch pocket for a more casual effect, however don’t discount this pocket as an option for a full suit—the casual nature of the patch pocket allows your suit to become more versatile if you ever wish to consider your jacket as a separate.
2. THE PATCH WITH A FLAP POCKET: A patch with a flap pocket is a versatile pocket style and is liberating in the sense that it doesn’t restrict your dress code. This pocket can be customised for both a boardroom suit or a business casual one. Rule of thumb: this pocket can be used anywhere except for a black tie event.
3. THE STANDARD POCKET: The standard (jetted) pocket are the sleekest and cleanest pockets of the bunch, essential and perfect for formal occasions.
The custom, tailored pathway is always a blessing, and never a curse—the ability to customise each detail is something that simply cannot be done with an off-the-rack suit. Create a suit that matches the occasion, your body type and your preferences. As architect Charles Eames quotes, “The details are not the details, they make the design”.
Besides good looks and great banter, our InStitchu Stylists are extremely detail orientated. With so many custom options, it can get confusing, we know—if you're still stuck on the details, book a fitting today with one of our Stylists—you'll be walking out with a garment designed down to the very detail.