Rules are made for breaking, and this is especially the case when it comes to the modern world of menswear. As custom becomes the “it” word in 2018 fashion, all you need to do is walk down the street to find unique looks, quirks and eye-catchers that accommodate the fashion palette of those who wish to create their own spin on style.
The traditional and timeless tuxedo however has always been one of those outfits where it has been harder to break through the mould. With the standard look being a black canvas, a white shirt, and of course, satin lapels, a room full of tuxedos can often end up looking like a room full of (handsome) penguins from afar.
At InStitchu, individuality is the key to successful styling, and we love a challenge, especially in the name of taking on tradition. In our Showrooms we have met brave men who are beginning to mix in some subtle patterns, some new-age colours and fabrics with a twist. Below are a few pointers on what you can change, and what to keep when constructing and creating the tuxedo to make you, you.
A mix on the fabric
Tuxedos are generally black, navy or a midnight blue—this is what tradition and the time of the tuxedo has taught us so far. Tune in to award show red carpets or simply take a glance on what’s trending for New York Fashion Week however, and you will find that men are venturing out to brighter fabrics, from orange to green to brown. Mixing up the fabric is the boldest move when twisting up the classic tuxedo—but for those who wish to edge into the waters instead of diving straight in, feel free to keep the dark tones, and instead opt in to subtle patterns of the same shade, such as the paisley or the houndstooth.
A change on the surroundings
Traditionally, the tuxedo would be worn to weddings and black tie events. With its beautiful construction and the way it exudes timeless class, the tuxedo is a garment that deserves to be shown, and it is now venturing out to the races, garden parties or even outdoor weddings. The trick is to switch and swap around—when wearing the tuxedo in a not-so black tie setting, feel free to wear the jacket with flannel trousers, opt in for a velvet smoking jacket, or switch up the shirt (if you are in a much more casual setting) by wearing a shirt that is not the traditional white.
Keep the fit
Something that we cannot begin to emphasise enough (something that we are extremely passionate about at InStitchu)—you need a tuxedo with the perfect fit. The tuxedo is a garment that boasts sharp construction and when worn correctly, there is almost no other garment more flattering on a man—James Bond didn’t get all his female friends by wearing a tweed jacket. To wear a tuxedo that is flattering, impressive and makes you feel your best, ensure that you go custom, tailored rather than off the rack. There are a variety of cuts and lapel types to go for, however for the larger men, we recommend a single-breasted jacket, and for the slimmer men, we recommend double-breasted jackets which will accentuate the shoulders and a cut that cinches in towards the waist area. A peak lapel is the most traditional option and is flattering for most body types, especially the shorter men.
At InStitchu, we have designed suits with linings of cocktail glasses and circus clowns, we love to break away from the traditional silk tie, and each suit we create is different according to each man’s body type. Customisation and a breaking away from tradition goes hand in hand—with racing season coming up and Spring around the corner, there is no better time to take on tradition and spruce up your own version of the tuxedo—keep the satin lapel (this is the backbone of the tuxedo), but play around with the rest, and you may find yourself winning best dressed.
To learn more about the Classic Tuxedo, head to our dedicated Tux page.