The English Gentleman: His Suit Cut, Fabric and Style

It has been said traditional British fashion will never go out of style, simply because it was never in style. The foundation of British style was derived from common sense and practicality. Heavy-duty materials such as leather and tweed produced derby shoes, trench coats and Tweed jackets for function and utility first before style.

Suit Cut and Functionality

For a long time Saville Row in Mayfair has been the home of many great bespoke tailors in London. Traditionally, the British suit cut carries a militaristic tone. It is predominantly two-buttoned and single breasted with dual vents. A tapered waist and shaped and higher armholes, which produces greater contours and a more fitted look compared to the American sack suit.

The English shooting jacket was constructed with thicker shoulders to accommodate a swinging rifle, while the hacking jacket's single back vent was better suited for horse riding than a dual vent.

Tweed

Tweed was born in Scotland and Ireland; wool fabrics are woven into rough multi-coloured twill, which can create highly versatile patterns. Its high wind and water resistance qualities were vital in the damp lands. Coupled with earth tones for camouflage it was perfect for shooting and any other country activities.

From origins as a working mans clothe, it wasn't long before it rose through British social classes. During the early nineteenth century, cash strapped Scottish locals sold out their estates to upper class English men for their country retreats. With no right to a traditional tartan, the English families commissioned various Tweed jacket patterns to distinguish their estate, family and employees.

Today's English Wardrobe

Now days, tweed, derby shoes and trench coats are matched with colourful shirts, jumpers and chinos. The classic and functional style has been given a youthful preppy twist.

The golden rule of never throw clothes out prevails in an English wardrobe. The older and more eclectic an item of clothing, the more useful it will be in years ahead. A standard Englishmen's wardrobe consists roughly of five city suits, three tweed jackets, eighty-five ties, twenty-five shirts, five shoes and four coats. A full wardrobe indeed.

Henry Ward Becker once said "Clothes and manners do not make then man, but when he is made, they greatly improve his appearance". The English Gent certainly knows this.

T.W Mitchell