It's probably because of TV series like 'Mad Men', but the male profile in fashion has noticeably thinned down in recent years. Sartorial tastes now tend towards slim cut and well-fitted, with razor sharp accents. This, in my opinion, is a good thing. Dressing well is the easiest way to say something positive about yourself without having to open your mouth.
With that idea in mind, dressing well comes down to so much more than just the suit you wear. The collar of your shirt is a vital component that can often be overlooked or misunderstood. The cut and shape of your collar dictates how your face is framed, and can be used to either elongate or broaden facial structure. On top of this, the collar can also determine what tie is suitable and how it should be knotted.
Alongside all these considerations, certain collars are suitable for certain events, with differing levels of formality. Therefore, to help avoid the inevitable confusion, the team here at InStitchu have put together this checklist of 5 of the most common collar types to help decide not just what collar to wear, but when to wear it.
Long Pointed Collar / Narrow Pointed Collar:
This collar is perhaps the most conservative and has the widest versatility of any collar type. It features longer points with a narrowed spread between them, which can help to draw the eyes down and elongate the face and neck. Only narrow tie knots may be worn with this collar. It is suitable for both office wear and more formal events, and the point length can be varied depending upon your tastes or needs. It is the most popular and commonly worn collar type.
A 'cut-away' collar refers to the downward facing points being, literally, 'cut-away'. This creates a much wider spread, which in turn can help to widen or broaden narrower facial features. As a general rule, the wider the spread of a collar the wider the tie knot is required to be. As such, the large cut-away collar should be worn with a tie and needs either a half-Windsor or full Windsor knot to suitably cover the spread. This collar is less conservative, and may suit more formal or 'dressier' events.
Medium Cut-Away Collar:
The perfect mix between the two extremes listed above - the medium cut-away has a narrower spread than its full sized brother, but still provides a degree of width necessary to experiment with different tie knots. A half-Windsor knot suits this collar perfectly. The collar can also easily be worn without a tie and unbuttoned under a sport coat or blazer for smart-casual events as well.
As the name implies, a button-down collar is fastened by buttons found on the collar points. This shirt has traditionally been seen as highly conservative, and is a staple for the 'preppy' look. Common consensus over time is that these shirts should not be worn with a tie, and subsequently should not be worn with a suit. However, consider using the collar as an opportunity to diversify your look. Team it with a thin knit tie and a cotton v-neck sweater for an alternate take on smart-casual days.
The club collar, also referred to as the "Eton" collar, is less commonly worn than any other style, and this creates a great opportunity to wear it well and stand out. Featuring rounded collar points with shortened lengths, it forms a retro, preppy look that is hard to emulate any other way. It should not be considered every day wear unless you're a British rock star, but worn tieless and paired with a suitable blazer and chino combination it can offer a modern spin on a timeless look.
-Stay Sharp
B.A. Barlow
